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金沙@22网址大全·腕表评测:帝舵这款全新碧湾精钢型腕表比劳力士还帅!

2020-01-11 15:50:27 来源:鲁南商报

金沙@22网址大全·腕表评测:帝舵这款全新碧湾精钢型腕表比劳力士还帅!

金沙@22网址大全,本文由w&w专业腕表测评网站出品

发条鱼原创翻译

at this year’s baselworld, tudor unveiled another addition to their always growing heritage black bay series. the new tudor heritage black bay steel is a largely cosmetic update to the range with a stainless steel bezel insert as well as a polarizing date function on an otherwise familiar looking dial. we recently had the opportunity to go hands on with the new black bay steel and came away impressed with the tasteful aesthetics,if a little underwhelmed at the low level of actual novelty.

在今年的巴塞尔展会上,帝舵经典名表启承碧湾潜水表全新推出全钢表款,配搭磨砂钢字圈,并且将日历功能显示置于经典黑色表盘之上。这几天我们有了这个机会去评测这款全新碧湾精钢型腕表,对这枚饶有趣味的腕表留下了深刻的印象。

rolex's sister brand tudor has enjoyed a well-deserved high level of industry attention in recent years, owing mostly to their vintage-inspired releases and their recent introduction of manufacture movements like the silicon hairspring equipped mt5602. one of tudor’s most successful collections, which is exemplary of their current design sense is the tudor black bay, a diver’s watch which tips its hat to tudor’s own historical dive watches.

帝舵算是劳力士的兄弟品牌,近年来受到业界高度关注,主要得益于其复古风格系列时计以及最近新推出的自产机芯比如配备硅游丝的mt5602。启承碧湾是帝舵最成功的表款系列之一,这一系列表款以时兴的表款设计成为典范,作为潜水表,其以帝舵传统的潜水时计为基础。

since the introduction of the eta-powered black bay in 2011, the series has been updated and added to each year, most prominently with the addition of the tudor manufacture 5602 movement a couple of years ago. other than that milestone, the black bay updates have been largely in material, like the black bay bronze we covered here or the black bay s&g we covered here, or in color scheme, like the black bay dark we covered here. tudor’s recent black bay steel seeks to even further round out the collection, which already seemingly offers something for everyone.

2011年,搭载eta机芯的启承碧湾首度问世,从那以后这一系列表款每年都会进行改造升级,几年前启承碧湾系列配备帝舵自主研发制作的5602机芯闪亮登场。除了这个里程碑之外,碧湾的升级改造主要还是在材质上,比如我们之前测评过的碧湾青铜表款和碧湾黄金钢表款;有的改造是在颜色方面,比如我们之前也测评过的碧湾黑钢表款。而帝舵最近这款碧湾精钢似乎想要进一步完善这一系列,并且看来已经展示了一些供人品鉴的实力。

the new black bay steel’s dial remains similar to its forebears. steel rimmed snowflake hands generously filled with super-luminova still preside over a straightforward submariner-esque dial. markedly different here is the aforementioned change in dial real estate at the 3 o’clock marker from a lumed hour marker on previous models to a date window on the new black bay steel. this was a bit of a departure because when tudor originally released the red-bezeled black bay in 2011, watch nerds rejoiced over the clean look of the dial, which was provided in no small part by the lack of a date function with its obtrusive window.

全新精钢碧湾的表盘与前作无太多差异。不锈钢雪花型指针上覆盖大面积夜光材料,典型潜水表式表盘。 做了明显改变的地方是前面提到的三点钟位置的设计,从之前条形夜光刻度变成了日期窗口。 这似乎有点离谱,因为当2011年碧湾发布了红色碧湾表款时,表迷们很喜欢这种简洁的表盘,在这枚手表表盘上没有提供日期显示窗口。

the date window on the black bay steel is rectangular and isn't really too obstructive or distracting, which can partly be credited to the fact that there isn't a cyclops lens over it. in fact, as you’ll notice in some of the more distant photographs, the date window’s very presence fades when viewed from only a few feet away. as you’d imagine, the tudor signature and shield sit at 12 o’clock. dial text at 6 o’clock is also slightly different, with “200m : 660ft” printed in red above “chronometer officially certified” in white speaking to the impressive mt5612 caliber oscillating within.

腕表上的日期窗口为矩形,并没有很显眼或者干扰读时,可能要归功于日期窗口上面没有设置放大镜。实际上站的稍微远一点,日期窗口基本就不可见了。如你所想,帝舵的logo和标志性盾牌位于12点位置, 表盘6点钟位置的文字也有所不同,用红色字体写着“200米:660英尺”,白色字体写着“天文台官方认证”。

tudor began producing their own calibers in house in 2015, initially supplying them in their north flag sport watch and in pelagos diver’s watches. since then, we’ve seen the steady introduction of manufacture calibers throughout tudor’s lineup which seems to imply the position in the market tudor is after. the new tudor black bay steel has the same mt5612 as tudor’s north flag and pelagos. so, although it isn’t a brand new caliber, it is still a pretty cool movement with 70 hours of power reserve, a somewhat standard 28,800 bph operating speed, and a silicone hairspring in a price point where a totally in house movement is rare.

帝舵于2015年开始自产机芯,最初在北旗体育表和pelagos潜水员手表中供应。 从那时起,我们就能看到了帝舵的机芯产品线稳步推出,这些产品线覆盖帝舵不同市场定位。 这款精钢碧湾同样搭载机芯mt5612,拥有70小时的动力储备,标准的28,800机芯频率,由惯性微调硅游丝摆轮调节,并以横夹板固定,令机芯功能更为可靠。

protecting all this from the elements and presumably water (this theoretically being a diver’s watch) is the same 41mm, 200m water resistant, stainless steel case, featuring alternating brushed and polished surfaces that black bay enthusiasts know too well. also carried over from previous versions are the anti-reflective, domed sapphire crystal and the tudor rose engraved crown. different here is the bezel insert which is made of steel as opposed to the aluminum present on previous black bay models. there is even an inverted red triangle at the sixty/zero mark on the bezel throwing back to the earliest rolex and tudor subs and adding a vintage feel which is further complimented by the riveted-style bracelet.

在深水处保护好机芯零件(在理论上是潜水员应该具有的)的同样是41毫米表径,200米防水,不锈钢表壳,圆纹磨砂饰面,这些喜欢碧湾系列的表友都已经十分了解了。传承前作经典设计的还有防反射的圆拱形蓝宝石水晶表镜和雕刻帝舵小红花标志的表冠。创新之处就在于磨砂刚字圈,之前手表表圈是由铝制成的。表圈上的60分/0刻度处有一个红色倒三角形,这个设计可以回溯到早期劳力士和帝舵的表款,增加了铆钉式的复古感。

there are a few strap options for the black bay steel. tudor's riveted oyster style bracelet, which is used on several other but not all black bay models is a standout. in this case, the riveted bracelet perfectly compliments the tool watch style the black bay steel seems to be going for. as a note, tudor’s execution of a modern “riveted style” bracelet is among the best out there, combining modern functionality with screw bars and modern adjustability for the classic look of submariners from years past. in another move to bolster the military feel, a canvas nato style strap in olive green is included with the black bay steel whether you opt for the stainless steel bracelet model or the also available black leather strap version.

精钢碧湾还提供不同的表带,帝舵经典的钢摺扣黑色仿古皮带,在其他几个但不是所有的碧湾精钢表款上使用。还有一种帝舵从品牌上世纪五六十年代的摺扣铆接表带中汲取灵感设计出来的铆接表带。值得一提的是,铆接表带是帝舵的代表作,表带两侧链节以铆钉头连接,结构呈阶梯形,这些设计特色闻名于世。启承碧湾精钢型表款的表带融入上述的美学特色,另一方面采用实心链节,将现代制造工艺融合其中。还有一款表带自带军表气质,那就是橄榄绿的帆布北约式表带。无论你选择铆接表带还是黑色皮革表带版本,black bay steel都包含橄榄绿的帆布北约式表带。

viewed together, the black bay steel is yet another nice looking addition to the black bay series. although it’s hard to believe there needed to be yet another black bay, the subtle change in bezel insert material and addition of the date function may grab a few enthusiasts who are currently precariously perched on the tudor purchasing fence. tudor’s latest black bay may end up serving alongside the pelagos in a little bit more of a tool watch niche than its predecessors, which seemed to be more interested in style than utility with their colored bezels and more symmetrical dials.

综上来看,碧湾精钢型是碧湾系列中非常不错的表款。虽然很难相信自己竟然还想入一款碧湾精钢,不过表圈材质材料的微妙变化以及增加的日期功能可能会吸引一些还在眼巴巴盯着帝舵购物网站准备入手碧湾的表迷。帝舵这款碧湾精钢型表款可能最终会像领潜型一样,比起前作来说,它更像是一种功能性腕表,以前的帝舵潜水表似乎对有设计感的表框和对称的表盘更感兴趣。

although nothing here (other than the stainless steel insert) is actually all that brand new, tudor have yet again proven their ability to produce solid offerings among their own myriad of watches such that there is something for everyone’s own individual taste.

尽管这枚腕表除了不锈钢表圈以外没有什么全新的设计,但是帝舵再次证明了他们有实力创新生产符合每位顾客喜好的产品,在无数手表生产中做出微小的改变就是难得的创新。(注:腕表型号:79730)

文中图片来源于网络


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